TOP BORDER 10-11-12-13

I recently took a couple of my quilts to a long arm quilter.  I took what I had done on my DJ.  She said that it begs to be hand quilted.  And it would be difficult to long- arm quilt because of all of the stopping and starting required.  It took me a while for me to comprehend what she was saying about "the seams being pressed open, but now I get it. An EPP block is basically seams open because of the way it was pieced.  Normal machine piecing has the seams pressed to the side, so that makes it possible to stitch in the ditch on blocks like that.  It makes sense that you wouldn't want to run a big needle in the ditch in EPP blocks because it would break stitches.

I have a while to think about it, but there is no way that I would hand quilt this.  I just don't have the strength in my hands any more.  So, I think this will be one of those quilts that I will need to baste up and machine quilt myself.  Ive taken this long to piece it, I figure I can quilt a few blocks a day and eventually finish it.  But I have at least a year to go before I will get to that point, so I have a while to think about it.

Now, onto the last of the top border

  T-10

This one was a pain in the neck to make.  Many DIRECTIONAL pieces, mostly on the edges.  The most important thing is getting the points to match.  I generally do that by starting my stitching at the points and working out

T-11

I was missing many pieces out of the package for this row.  I had to make some of them.  I don't know if that is what made it so difficult to put this block together.  Obviously there are DIRECTIONAL pieces, so be aware and mark them accordingly.

T-12

This was the easiest triangle of the whole row.  Basically, just applique the leaf onto the background fabric and then glue to the background card stock.  the leaf was positioned this way, but if I had to do it over again, I would turn it so it looked like the top of the leaf is pointed to the tip of the triangle.

T-13

With this block the ovals and second row of triangles are appliqued on first.   There are directional pieces along the edge. 

So my top row of triangles are finished.  I worked on something every day and it took me about one month to finish the row and sew it together. 

Now I'm going back to do a few rows of blocks.  Row E is next.


Happy Stitching!  T

TOP BORDER 7-8-9

 T-7

This triangle is entirely EPP.  the most important thing to remember about this block is MOST of the pieces are directional.  So mark your pieces..

 T-8

This triangle wasn't too difficult.  the bottom diamonds are appliqued into place and then attached to the pieces.  The pieces that run along the edge are DIRECTIONAL.

T-9

The most important part about this triangle is remembering that the edge pieces are DIRECTIONAL.  And, when piecing together, stitch from the center out on the points of the diamonds/triangle.  That way all of the points will line up.

Keep on Stitching!  t

TOP BORDER 4-5-6

 T-4

With this block it is very important to lay all of the pieces out on a design board.  I have 10x10 piece of cardboard with a piece of flannel.  this block was more difficult because there are so MANY directional triangles.  Even the little ones, 5 triangles down (inner white) are laid a specific way. 
What I did was lay them out, and mark the backs.  After I apply the fabric, I lay them right back where they should go and I stitch  from there so there are no mistakes.  It isn't perfect, I could have lined up that center piece a little better, but it is done. 

TIP:  the very tip in this is different than the EPP modification in the pack.  I machine paper pieced it because I liked the original version better.  I applied it to the triangle that was in the EPP pack.

 T-5

The only directional pieces on this block are the two strips on the edges, so in that way it is much easier to make.   I also machine paper pieced the tip of the block, because I liked the original version better.

T-6

This block also has many directional pieces along the edge.  The little oval and diamond in the tip are appliqued first and then applied to the triangle paper piece. 


Keep Stitching, you will improve every day!
t

TOP BORDER 1-2-3

 T-1

 I actually machine paper pieced the whole block and attached it to card stock.  I liked the original better than the EPP version.  I got one of the stripes a little wide somehow, but then I remembered my motto.... Better finished than perfect.

 T-2

The most important thing to remember with this block, actually, ALL of the blocks, is that the pieces are DIRECTIONAL.  It is important to remember with doing prep work, to mark BACK on the back of the pieces so that the right side edges are going in the right direction.  

T-3

This block was pretty straightforward.  Just remember to mark the pieces that touch on the EDGE.  Those are the pieces that are directional.  Make sure that they are marked  so you know when you apply the fabric.  

Keep stitching!  we will get finished eventually!

t

TOP ROW TIPS

I thought I would take a break from blocks and make a border.  I started with the top border.  This is block 1-6.
I'm posting about what I finished  because I learned something important as I went along.  It took until the 5th triangle for me to figure it out. 

I connected the top of each scallop so there is a continuous line.

 I expected that the triangle would easily fit alongside to the tip of the scallop piece.  But they were consistently a little longer.  I thought that it meant that length was added because I press the triangles in a steam press before I piece them to the scallop.  So I was going into the block, ripping out, and shortening where I could and putting it back together..  and it worked!!  But I was doing this for every triangle.. which is ridiculous.. and maybe I'm too much of a perfectionist, but I realized that I just had to be doing something wrong.  but what?

FINALLY, I figured it out.. Instead of the tip of the scallop sitting flush with the bottom of the triangles, it should be trapped at the bottom the triangles.

When it is done this way, the triangles fit perfectly.  When I start sewing them in I first stitch near the top of the scallop leaving about 1/8" so the scallops can be attached together. 
Then I stitch the bottom of the triangle down leaving about 1/8" over the tip of the scallop. 

I think that just due to so many pieces being put together to make the triangle, it isn't going to be perfect like the edge of the scallop piece. So I tack it down at each end and run a basting stitch, tacking around every inch and attach the two pieces.  This way, it lays flatter and I don't run into bows that I can't get flat enough.  After I'm done with basting, I then I stitch them down. 

It seems to work for me, and I hope that it helps you.

The worst part about making this quilt, is that there were no instructions with it.  We all have different ways of doing things that work for us, and that is how we learn to make this quilt. 

Happy Stitching!!  t

ROW D THOUGHTS

With this row I learned to be patient and use the best technique to get my blocks finished.  I would like them to look like the original if I can, but sometimes.. most of the time, EPP is perfect for this quilt.  It  may take a little longer, but I feel that I have much more control over the finished block and having all of the points line up if I am doing it by hand. 

I recommend sashing each block as you make them.  I always put a sashing strip on the left side and the bottom, and a cornerstone on the bottom left.  Except for the 13th block, which gets two sashings and a cornerstone like all of the rest, but additionally, gets a sashing and a cornerstone on the right. 

I am going for a change of pace and I am going to piece the top row. 

Last night, I used my BORDER TRIANGLE TEMPLATE and cut all 52 scallop pieces in a half an hour.  I used adhesive back sandpaper to put around the edge of the template to keep it from slipping. 
I can only find this sandpaper in discs, I just had to make sure that I didn't use good scissors to cut the strips.  It works great though. 

I am trying to keep chugging along.  At some point I need to take a break to make Christmas gifts, put a border on a quilt top, and make bouquets for my daughter's wedding.  No more two year breaks though!!!



Happy Stitching!
T

D-11. D-12, D-13

D-11

This block was all EPP.  I worked from the center out piecing the rectangle into a square.  Be aware that there are two different sizes of triangles here. 

Piece the side pieces separately as shown.  Before attaching them to the papers, applique the diamond shape into place.  Make sure that it is as close to the tip as you can get it.  Not too difficult, as long as you pay attention.

 D-12

This was the most difficult block although it doesn't look it .  The EPP papers had the dart split down the center, and then the dart was appliqued onto a square. The thinness of the shape was just too much for me to worry about what to do with the excess fabric at the tips.  Getting it around the tips of the paper was one problem,  and then what to do with the excess fabric when they were appliqued down. 

I wasted time and fabric trying several different ways to make these.  Finally, the technique that worked the best was to paper piece the darts and then applique on a corner square.  Put all of that on a square of cardboard stock, and then EPP in the usual fashion.  It didn't turn out too bad after I figured out how to do it. 

D-13

I think that this was the easiest block in the whole row.  I paper pieced all of it and attached it to a 4.5 square of card stock.  The block is called "Field of Dreams" in the book, so a perfect way to use some of my baseball print.

All in all, I'm satisfied to have all of them done and the row sewn on.

Happy Stitching!, T